We screwed the table top planks to a pair of 2X2 to form a stiff table top. Then I had to take the end planks off again so I could cut some dovetail ends on the 2X2 to join with the 2X4 legs. Then I cut the dovetail mortices out of the ends of the 2X4 legs. I clamped two of them together at a time and sawed through them both with a back saw to form the sides of the mortice. I inserted a coping saw to cut out the bulk of the wood, then finished cleaning the bottom with the 3/4" wood chisel and mallet in the photo.
The tenons were 1/2" thick so I needed 1/2" mortices in the 2X4 legs. In an effort to make an accurate fit, I used a drill press with a 1/2" Forstner bit to drill between the mortice markings. The bit could only reach 2-1/2" deep but a mechanical engineer I know advised me that 2 inches would provide plenty of strength. The problem became a non-issue. I just revised the rail tenon length to be only 2-3/8" long.
After the mortice holes were drilled I squared up the holes with wood chisels.
NOTE TO SELF: In the future use only good quality wood chisels that will not bend or break when cutting hemlock. My Stanley chisels were fine but the Master Craft and the "ToughTest" brand were not.
I didn't like that precarious assembly so I added the back two legs as seen in the next photo. Having them in place allowed me to double check the measurement for the rail. Surprisingly it was exactly the same length as the front rail.
The only fasteners we used were screws. Each plank on the table top has four screws in it. The 9 inch rails each have six screws in them. If the table becomes wobbly we can take the screws out, disassemble all the joints and re-fit them with glue. First we need to let the table experience some swelling and shrinking, and some aging and see how it fares.














